Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Motion




Many years ago I liked the dress I saw at Modcloth so much that I decided to make my own copy.. That was the time when I discovered online sewing community, got inspired with all the talented ladies out there, when I looked at every tutorial I came across and learned so many good sewing skills, and also I started experimenting more with pattern hacking and pattern drafting.. My copy of Modcloth dress was actually the second project I ever posted online, on my Kollabora profile!! You can read a short description about that make here, and see the photos.. Basically, I found the perfect bodice pattern in issue 11/2008 of Burda magazine.. All I had to do is change a number of pleats to get the bodice I wanted and draft a full circle skirt..



Years after my first make, I still love the silhouette of this dress.. Last summer I made a green version (photos bellow), and now I decided to go back to the stripped fabric and make a spring version with sleeves.. What I love about these sleeves is how they perfectly follow the line of shoulders.. Sleeves are constructed from two parts and the fit is spot on.. Also, this type of sleeves is easy to sew.. Inserting the regular type of sleeve is still my least favorite thing to do.. 

Friday, April 13, 2018

No, Nothing, Never




This dress is one of my recent makes which I've already shown on Instagram @lejditea.. It was a very spontaneous make.. I had totally different sewing plans for that day, but when the idea popped to my mind I had to try it.. Recently I bought this lovely swallows print fabric.. At first I naively thought it was some sort of viscose crepe.. When I had all pattern pieces cut, while applying interfacing I become suspicious and did a burn test.. It showed that this lovely fabric is actually polyester.. It was too late to change my sewing plan..



The pattern is #101 from Burda 11/2008.. I always wanted to try that pattern, and I'm happy I finally did it.. It is recommended for stretchy fabrics but I decided to try it with woven tracing it a size larger.. That was a smart move.. I wear Burda size 36, and this size 38 fits me very well.. Also I made a few minor changes.. I added a waistband, moved invisible zipper to the side, and added more volume to this simple gathered skirt..

Thursday, March 15, 2018

Spanish Sahara


Preparations for spring have started!! I've been wanting to make shirt dresses for my shop, but with my modest drafting skills I had to turn to Burda patterns for basic pattern which I can redraft and embellish to my own ideas.. In this year's March issue of Burda magazine there is an interesting shirt dress pattern #113.. The pattern has that strange twist thing around the bust which I personally don't like, but basic pattern looked like something I could use.. Also I love the skirt and I plan to make one version for myself.. Before that I made this dress I'm showing you here as a test version.. I made in size larger than I actually wear (so I won't keep the dress)..



This cute fabric I bought at a summer sale.. I loved the dragonflies and moths, but I wasn't sure about the main color.. The fabric is very pale and you can hardly see moths, even on close-up photos.. My fave here are green dragonflies.. The fabric is lightweight cotton, perfect for shirt dresses..


Thursday, March 8, 2018

Niko



Let me show you my winter coat now when winter has come to an end.. I've finished sewing this coat at the end of November 2017, and I've been wearing it since then.. Even if it took me a month after that to find buttons, and then few weeks to sew them so I won't get cold during windy days.. Luckily, we had very mild weather with temperatures above 0 degrees C so my lack of buttons wasn't a big problem :D



I had my eye on this pattern since it was released in Burda 12/2016.. I loved everything about it, even the model photo.. The coat has very simple silhouette which was important to me because my plan was to make a super warm winter coat using the fabrics I had in my stash.. The main fabric is thick wool I bought several years ago.. I also used padded lining to add warmth.. There's not much to write about sewing process.. I didn't want to make any changes to the pattern, so I just cut all the pieces and put them together.. I even traced the placement for buttons and buttonholes (that part I usually figure out by myself)..There are no tricky parts with sewing this pattern.. Even the pockets are easy to make..



It took me a while to completely finish this coat.. I couldn't find any interesting buttons.. I even bought one set, and changed my mind.. In the end I settled with these simple navy ones and decided that my search is over.. To be honest it was getting colder in second half of January.. Next step was making buttonholes.. To my surprise, this was the first time my sewing machine couldn't finish the task because of the thickness of fabric layers.. It wasn't a big deal, I finished buttonholes by hand (for the first time)..

Sunday, March 4, 2018

Mis-Shapes




I completely forgot my plan to make a winter version of one of my fave and most worn summer dresses.. I guess I was busy with creating new things for my shop, and this project easily slipped my mind.. The original pattern is from July 1995 issue of Burda style magazine, and the full blog post about my first make you can see here.. The dress is very comfortable to wear, body flattering, and has interesting details like bust darts and open V at the back.. For winter version all I needed to do is make long sleeves, which was a very easy modification..



The fabric makes this dress more special.. It's one of my lucky flea market finds and I spent less than 2 euros for it.. The fabric is super soft wool, interestingly woven.. I guess you can see what I'm talking about on the detail photo.. Many of the fabrics that I find at the flea market are such a good quality.. In most cases I keep them for selfish sewing.. Once again I couldn't decide which side of the fabric to use, so I combined both.. One side I used for bodice and sleeves of the dress, and other for the skirt.. Also I added the lining to the skirt.. The only thing I regret is not having pockets.. I kinda got used to having that practical feature.. I didn't make any fit changes.. For next summer version I should slightly take in at the shoulders.. With winter version I was counting on wearing the top underneath this dress when days are colder..

Thursday, February 15, 2018

Gallowdance


It didn't take me long to make a dress based on a previously posted top pattern.. My original idea was to make a dress with kimono sleeves, but I didn't have any clear idea about all the details.. I knew only the type of sleeves, that it should have a gathered skirt and a waistband.. For my first try I picked this black & white brush stroke print viscose I had in my stash.. Maybe it wasn't the best choice for this romantic dress, but I like it.. Important thing for this model is that the fabric drapes nicely.. Also, I had the right amount of fabric to make this dress with a midi length skirt..



There were couple of changes I had to make to the original pattern for a top with kimono sleeves to get the bodice I needed for my dress.. Top pattern is #108 from Burda 02/2018.. If you ignore details that are added to the original version, like I did with my version of the top, you get a basic pattern for a kimono sleeve blouse.. To make a dress bodice I cut the top at the waist, included 5 cm for the waistband, and added waist darts to the front and back bodice pieces.. Now when  I look at the finished garment I think that the bodice might look better with gathered fabric above the waistband (instead of sewing darts).. I saw this project as a perfect one to try making a back slit.. That was on my mind for a while, and I'm glad I finally got the opportunity to include it.. I would love to make another version of this dress to make all the details perfect.. Just have to wait for warmer days to come.. 


Friday, February 9, 2018

Modulations




I've made a new top just as a test version and ended up loving it very much :) It all started when I saw this dress pattern in February Burda.. I liked the bodice and the sleeves and wanted to try making something similar to that.. For me it is easier to try drafting smaller version than resizing the original pattern from size 44 to size 36.. In the same issue of Burda magazine there was a top pattern with kimono sleeves, and if you look at the technical sketch you can see basic similarities between these two..



The top pattern is #108 from Burda 02/2018..  I made a few changes to the original pattern.. There was no need for me to cut those neckline pieces separately from bodice pieces.. With my busy print fabric, it was best to keep things simplified.. Also I didn't like those cuffs with elastic, so I made regular ones.. I completely forgot I had this fabric in my stash.. It was sitting there for years, waiting for a perfect pattern.. The fabric is lovely viscose I found in a remnant bin, only 0.9m length.. Small amount for most of the projects.. I was happy when I saw I could squeeze my two pattern pieces on this fabric, and I had enough leftovers for cuffs.. That's why I have a back center seam, which I don't mind.. It's always fulfilling when you know you have minimum fabric waste.. 

Tuesday, October 24, 2017

Not In Love




Lately I've been taking more time for selfish sewing.. This cropped sweater is currently one of my favorite new makes which I want to wear all the time.. I bought this textured knit fabric on sale, only 85cm was left.. There was also more in navy color, but I liked more this light version.. Not so much can one do with short piece like that.. At that moment Burda issue 08/2016 was on my table because I used it to make a shirt.. I took one more look at the patterns and saw this cute cropped sweater #105.. One of the rare Burda moments where styling was great and even my fabric matched the one model is wearing.. Only the color is different.. Also, I loved the pleated detail on the sleeves..


I wasn't  sure if I would have enough fabric, so I quickly traced the pattern and lucky me!! I had just the right amount of fabric.. Sewing all parts went very fast.. I decided to finish all the hems with bias binding and handstitching.. After finishing everything and trying it on, I made a decision to make the same detail with pleats at the sides of the bodice because the sweater was too wide at the waist..  With that fix I got a perfect cropped sweater..