Thursday, June 7, 2018

Hot Ride




Recently I made two of these shirt-dresses for my shop, and after posting the photos on Instagram I realized that I haven't wrote a word about this self-drafted pattern here on the blog.. This pattern I drafted last summer with an idea to make a simple but cute shirt dress-pattern that wouldn't require large amount of fabric.. Just something I could squeeze in sizes S and M from about 1.10-1.20 m of fabric.. Here's a short report about this make ;)



The pattern was easy to draft from a basic bodice pattern.. I had to draft the collar and button placket.. Also I knew I needed the waist darts so I could insert the waist ties there..  That was all I needed to make the bodice.. The skirt is just a basic skirt with a few small pleats.. Not much to say about drafting and calculating process.. The important thing is that the final outcome looks neat and polished.. My plan was to use this pattern for fabrics that drapes nicely like viscose (my number one choice for summer outfits).. For my first make I used navy polka-dot viscose fabric and it turned out great.. You can see one WIP photo here, and photos of the finished garment here and here.. That first dress I made in size M, which is size larger than I actually wear.


Thursday, May 31, 2018

Follow The Body




This dress is the result of my a collaboration with Fibers To Fabric.. It all started about three months back when dear Vishruti contacted me to see if I would be interested to try their fabrics.. After looking at their Etsy store I knew that the decision to pick one fabric will be hard.. They have great selection of Indian cotton fabrics - hand stamped, batik, ikat weave, shibori print, and many more wonderful prints.. This henna green floral print caught my eye.. The true color was hard to capture with the camera, so you must trust me that it's slightly more interesting seen in person.. If you like this print, there is one more colorway left in their shop - maroon and blue floral combination.. When the fabric arrived I was truly overwhelmed with the softness and quality.. I guess I'm so much used to work with Italian and Turkish fabrics here, that I didn't have any idea how Indian cotton looks and feels..



When I ordered the fabric I calculated how much I would need for the average dress that I make.. I didn't have any clear idea abut the actual model I would like to make.. Only thing I knew is that I would love to make an easy to wear summer dress, you know the one you just throw on and feel great.. One day I went to see Mokosha and she looked fabulous wearing her colorful dress.. That's when I finally figured out what I want to make.. Mokosha was kind enough to burrow me this vintage Vougue pattern (Very Easy Vogue 1435, by Leo Narducci).. For more info about her make, hop over to her blog.. 



Thursday, May 3, 2018

Rock Lobster




So glad we finally found time to photograph this dress :) I made it two weeks ago, and got to post only one quick photo on Instagram.. Now you can see better how this craziness actually looks.. The dress was a very spontaneous make.. In February I bought this bright plaid cotton fabric mostly because it was on sale.. I calculated how much fabric I needed to make two skirts, one for my shop and one to keep for myself.. First I made the skirt for my shop (you can see it here) and prepared all pattern pieces for the skirt no 2.. Somehow I had some other sewing to finish in between,  and my skirt had to wait.. Meanwhile, the April issue of Burda magazine was released and I liked many patterns I saw there.. I don't know exactly how and why, but I decided to try to make a dress pattern #112 using this cheerful plaid cotton,0 even though it was already cut and prepared for the skirt.. I managed to squeeze all bodice pieces on one of the previously cut skirt pieces.. The ruffle is slightly narrower and shorter than the pattern suggests.. Only when I finished the bodice I realized that I don't have enough fabric for the skirt.. A week or two passed before I had the budget to the full price for this fabric.. After that I didn't want to have any leftovers so I came up with idea for the gathered skirt with huge pockets.. That's also the reason for the midi length skirt - no scraps and leftovers!! While making the pockets I thought of using an embroidery heart stitch I have on my sewing machine to make it even more special (like this bright plaid wasn't enough).. I rarely use any of those decorative stitches but in this case I think it looks good..


Wednesday, April 18, 2018

Motion




Many years ago I liked the dress I saw at Modcloth so much that I decided to make my own copy.. That was the time when I discovered online sewing community, got inspired with all the talented ladies out there, when I looked at every tutorial I came across and learned so many good sewing skills, and also I started experimenting more with pattern hacking and pattern drafting.. My copy of Modcloth dress was actually the second project I ever posted online, on my Kollabora profile!! You can read a short description about that make here, and see the photos.. Basically, I found the perfect bodice pattern in issue 11/2008 of Burda magazine.. All I had to do is change a number of pleats to get the bodice I wanted and draft a full circle skirt..



Years after my first make, I still love the silhouette of this dress.. Last summer I made a green version (photos bellow), and now I decided to go back to the stripped fabric and make a spring version with sleeves.. What I love about these sleeves is how they perfectly follow the line of shoulders.. Sleeves are constructed from two parts and the fit is spot on.. Also, this type of sleeves is easy to sew.. Inserting the regular type of sleeve is still my least favorite thing to do.. 

Friday, April 13, 2018

No, Nothing, Never




This dress is one of my recent makes which I've already shown on Instagram @lejditea.. It was a very spontaneous make.. I had totally different sewing plans for that day, but when the idea popped to my mind I had to try it.. Recently I bought this lovely swallows print fabric.. At first I naively thought it was some sort of viscose crepe.. When I had all pattern pieces cut, while applying interfacing I become suspicious and did a burn test.. It showed that this lovely fabric is actually polyester.. It was too late to change my sewing plan..



The pattern is #101 from Burda 11/2008.. I always wanted to try that pattern, and I'm happy I finally did it.. It is recommended for stretchy fabrics but I decided to try it with woven tracing it a size larger.. That was a smart move.. I wear Burda size 36, and this size 38 fits me very well.. Also I made a few minor changes.. I added a waistband, moved invisible zipper to the side, and added more volume to this simple gathered skirt..

Thursday, March 15, 2018

Spanish Sahara


Preparations for spring have started!! I've been wanting to make shirt dresses for my shop, but with my modest drafting skills I had to turn to Burda patterns for basic pattern which I can redraft and embellish to my own ideas.. In this year's March issue of Burda magazine there is an interesting shirt dress pattern #113.. The pattern has that strange twist thing around the bust which I personally don't like, but basic pattern looked like something I could use.. Also I love the skirt and I plan to make one version for myself.. Before that I made this dress I'm showing you here as a test version.. I made in size larger than I actually wear (so I won't keep the dress)..



This cute fabric I bought at a summer sale.. I loved the dragonflies and moths, but I wasn't sure about the main color.. The fabric is very pale and you can hardly see moths, even on close-up photos.. My fave here are green dragonflies.. The fabric is lightweight cotton, perfect for shirt dresses..


Thursday, March 8, 2018

Niko



Let me show you my winter coat now when winter has come to an end.. I've finished sewing this coat at the end of November 2017, and I've been wearing it since then.. Even if it took me a month after that to find buttons, and then few weeks to sew them so I won't get cold during windy days.. Luckily, we had very mild weather with temperatures above 0 degrees C so my lack of buttons wasn't a big problem :D



I had my eye on this pattern since it was released in Burda 12/2016.. I loved everything about it, even the model photo.. The coat has very simple silhouette which was important to me because my plan was to make a super warm winter coat using the fabrics I had in my stash.. The main fabric is thick wool I bought several years ago.. I also used padded lining to add warmth.. There's not much to write about sewing process.. I didn't want to make any changes to the pattern, so I just cut all the pieces and put them together.. I even traced the placement for buttons and buttonholes (that part I usually figure out by myself)..There are no tricky parts with sewing this pattern.. Even the pockets are easy to make..



It took me a while to completely finish this coat.. I couldn't find any interesting buttons.. I even bought one set, and changed my mind.. In the end I settled with these simple navy ones and decided that my search is over.. To be honest it was getting colder in second half of January.. Next step was making buttonholes.. To my surprise, this was the first time my sewing machine couldn't finish the task because of the thickness of fabric layers.. It wasn't a big deal, I finished buttonholes by hand (for the first time)..

Sunday, March 4, 2018

Mis-Shapes




I completely forgot my plan to make a winter version of one of my fave and most worn summer dresses.. I guess I was busy with creating new things for my shop, and this project easily slipped my mind.. The original pattern is from July 1995 issue of Burda style magazine, and the full blog post about my first make you can see here.. The dress is very comfortable to wear, body flattering, and has interesting details like bust darts and open V at the back.. For winter version all I needed to do is make long sleeves, which was a very easy modification..



The fabric makes this dress more special.. It's one of my lucky flea market finds and I spent less than 2 euros for it.. The fabric is super soft wool, interestingly woven.. I guess you can see what I'm talking about on the detail photo.. Many of the fabrics that I find at the flea market are such a good quality.. In most cases I keep them for selfish sewing.. Once again I couldn't decide which side of the fabric to use, so I combined both.. One side I used for bodice and sleeves of the dress, and other for the skirt.. Also I added the lining to the skirt.. The only thing I regret is not having pockets.. I kinda got used to having that practical feature.. I didn't make any fit changes.. For next summer version I should slightly take in at the shoulders.. With winter version I was counting on wearing the top underneath this dress when days are colder..